Taking a look at the Autumn/Winter 2011 shows of a few of Couture’s masters and also newcomers…

Elie Saab’s presentation featured simple shapes that followed the lines of the body, always with plenty of fabulous embellishment, of course. Word is, he’s breaking away from the red carpet parade and setting his sights set on a younger couture clientele.

Even newer on the Couture show scene is Bouchra Jarrar, formerly an assistant to Nicolas Ghesquière, who offers perfectly tailored modern separates with a defined shoulder in her own line.

Karl Lagerfeld’s latest for Chanel featured no jewellery whatsoever, just the sparkles on the clothes (all manner of sequins and jewelled buttons), fingerless gloves, feather-lined bowler hats to match each outfit, and boots that revealed little leg, except for the sheer versions!

The sparkles were, however, head to toe, and also in the air!

Short or long, the ensembles had a straight or peplum silhouette, slightly exaggerated shoulders, and often a portrait collar.

Jean Paul Gaultier was apparently inspired by the Black Swan (even for men!), and he revisited his classics such as the trench coat, in a slightly more sombre manner than in other collections.

There were some New Look-esque full skirts that still had a natural waist, with wide shoulders for visual balance and to fit with the tougher, almost masculine mood.

Also: tonnes of feathers!

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